Method of stretching and assembling shoe uppers on lasts



April 25, 1944. E. 1. LA CHAPELLE METHOD OF STRETGHING AND ASSEMBLING SHOE UPPERS ON LASTS I Filed Sept. 1, 1942 2 Sheets-Sheet l frlverftor.

p '1944; 1 E. l. LA- CHAPELLE 7,

METHOD OF STRETCHING AND ASSEMBLING SHOE UPPERS on LASTS 'Filed Slept. 1, 1942 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 I 21 venior.

Patented Apr. 25, 1944 =UNl-TED STATES PATENT OFFI METHOD F STRETCHIN G AND AS- SEMBLING SHOE UPPERS ON LASTS Euclid I. La Chapelle, Brockton, Mass. Application September 1, 194.2, Serial No. 456,954,

14 Claims.

My invention relates to a method of andassembling uppers on lasts preparatory ,to the performance ofthe pulling over machine operation.

This application r contains subject matter in common with application Serial No. 388,804, filed April 16, 1941, oftwhichvit is a continuation in part.

Thetfirstlstep in the lasting of a shoe is the assembling/"operation which generally is performed by .handtwithtthe aid of lasting pincers. Once a counter has been provided and a coating of cementitious material. has been applied upon both theinside, and the outside thereof, it is inserted betweenthe upper proper and its lining and. ,then the vupper is .nextassembled on a last on which anuinsole has. been previously assembled and then the shoe is set on a bench spindle and the upper and its lining located at the heelend of the last are engaged and stretched heightwise of the last and over the insole by means of the hand lasting pincers and then, while the workmanforces the upper, its lining and the counteragainst the heel-end of the last with his left ha nd he drives a tack through the upper,v

its lining the counterflange and the insole-the taclg clenching against theheel-plate of the last.

any difficulties are encountered at the pulling over machine operation, which is the second step in the lasting of the shoe, and with the aim in view of attainingbetter results and of facilitating .the pulling overmachine operation, it has been proposed to provide in an assembling machine .stretching means,- such as adapted to stretch r the uppe ilengthwise from the heel-end to l the toe end of, the-.last, but. such shoe upper stretchingmeam in an assembling machine never have been adopted -in a commercial sense. It has beenproposedalso to perform a moulding opera tion upon, a shoelupper to, pre-form the upper to theapproximate shapeiof a last prior to the assembling operation. But to thus prepare a shoe upper prior to the assembling operation prohibitively increases the cost of lasting shoes since an addition al lasting operation then must be added to the usual lasting stepsin the lasting of the shoe In any event, so far as I am aware, such proposed shoe uppermoulding operation never has been adopted in, a commercial sense. Furthermore, it has been proposed to drive tacks at each side of the heelwseattof a shoe at the assembling operation, through the, upper, the counterflange and the insole the tacks clenching against theheel-plateof the last. This form of assem:

stretching the counter in heelseat formation, on the heelend of the last, for making possible a better and easier heel-seat lasting machine operation and a better and easier pulling over machine operation, in that thetoe-end pulling over machine movement upon the shoe upper then would be far less iis aimed wer u r yts in h per a d strenuous, so that-theforepart of the upper located on top of the last, back of the toe, then would not be liftedand strained so forcibly, as heretofore ihad been the case away from the last and so that this most ,difficult portion of the upper to last properly then would be more easily brought down to the last and with far less danger of damage to the lining located. at the ball line of the last which oftentimes istorn under the strain of the grippers of a pullingover machine provided with grippers adapted to engage and stretch the upper at theball linev ofl thelast. This proposed form of assembling,,howeverQfailed of success, as the lower-marginalportion of the upper in binding even under theinfiuence of the then less forcible toe-endrpullingover movement of the pulling over machinewould cause the upper to tear against thesaidtacks located at the sides of the heel-seat of the shoe and this form of assembling has been abandonedand only one tack is still being driven at the heel-end of. the last at the assembling operation and a very strenuous, pulling over movement by thetoe-endgrippers of the pulling over machine still hasto be relied upon to firmly set the upper and the counter on the heel-end of the last.

From mylong experience in the science of lasting and pulling over boots and shoes I have been led to reason and therefrom to conceivethe herein dis closed methodwhich has for objective the stated ex ting at the pulling overmachine operation and, p imarily, the elimination of the most serious defective condition existing atthe pulling over machine operationand which is at the ball line of the last where excessive straining action by the grippers of the pulling over machine heretofore has been required,

As herein shown, described andrecited in some of the claims, my method is intended for and does eliminate this serious condition at the ball line of the last at the pulling over machine operation in bringing about far less need of straining action by the grippers of the pulling over machine at or approximately at the ball line of the last in stretching the upper heightwise of the last and therefore far less hammer damage to the upper I and/or itsf lining atthat portion thereby in firmly setting the forepart of the upper on the last at the sides of or in close proximity to the ball line of the last and on top of the last in the hollow back of the toe, as good pulling over practice dictates.

At this point it may be stated that boots and shoes generally are pulled over by machine as a hand performed pulling over operation is the most laborious operation in shoemaking, but the desired results are difficult of attainment in pulling over shoes by machine and in many instances serious damage in the tearing of the upper and/or of its lining takes place. For instance, once the toe-end of the shoe upper has been pulled over by machine, while the upper is under sequential lengthwise strain and binds along its lower marginal portion from the heel-end to the toe-end of the last, the operator in then manipulating the grippers located at the sides of the toe to further stretch lengthwise of the last the binding lower marginal portion of the upper from the heel-end of the last to 'set thetip-seam straight on thedast, oftentimes overstrains the upper and its lining and then'either of which or both of which tear in the vicinity of the tip-seam.

The stretching lengthwise of the lower marginal portion of the upper at the assembling operation in accordance with the practice of my method also eliminates this serious defective con dition at the pulling over machine operation.

In this connection it is important to explain that in view of overcoming the heretofore undue binding of the lower marginal portion of the upper lengthwiseof thelast at the pulling over machine operation, which precludesthe working of the lower marginal portion of the upper to its proper extent of stretch in a direction towards the toe of the last without liability of damage to the upper and/or its lining in the setting of the tip-seam straight on the last, the practice of the herein disclosed method invariably dictates that the extent of the lengthwise stretch upon the lower marginal portion of the upper be in excess of the extent of the lengthwise, stretch upon the top portion of the upper. This method of stretching the-lower marginal portion of the upper at the assembling operation as above explained, eliminates undue binding of the lower marginal portion of the upper at the pulling over machine operation as the lengthwise stretched marginal portion of the upper then corresponds, as to the extent of lengthwise stretch, with or approximately with the extent of the lengthwise stretch upon the top portion of the upper taking place at the pulling over machine operation which, due to the then lengthwise stretch upon the top portion of the upper taking place from the toe-end portion of the upper, invariably is in excess of the lengthwise stretch upon the top portion of the upper that has already taken place,

as herein proposed, at the assembling operation.

Still further explained, such a greater extent of lengthwise stretch upon the top of the upper at the pulling over machine operation is due to the fact that the pulling over movement at the toeend of the upper is the first performed pulling over movement and which serves to stretch and draft the top of the upper, and the lower marginal portion of the upper to a lesser extent of stretch, lengthwise of the last from the heel to the toe and therefore which must be most strenuous; but notatablyso due to the requirements of the subsequent final lasting step upon the toeend of the upper which call for a most strenuous pulling over movement of the toe-end of the upper to fully stretch and thereby bring about proper mould of the toe-end of the upper (and of the toe-box when present) on the extreme toeend of the last.

But, a still more serious defective condition exists at the pulling over machine operation whenever the pulling over machine is provided with grippers adapted to engage and stretch the upper heightwise of the last at the ball line of the last, in that the portion of the upper located over the top of the forepart of the last, back of the toe, is thereby forced down towards the last with great strain upon the upper and its lining which oftentimes causes tearing of the lining located at the center of the f-orelpart of the upper. Such damage to the lining is so prevalent at the pulling over machine operation whenever the pulling over machine is provided with grippers adapted to engage and stretch the upper heightwise of the last at the ball line portion of the last, that in some shoe factories rubber cement is applied between the forepart of the upper proper and the lining, so that in the event of the lining being torn at the center of the forepart of the upper by the straining action of the aforesaid grippers located at the ball line of the last, the torn lining then may readily adhere to the upper proper and thus still offer a smooth inner shoe surface but as to the eventual reaction upon the wearers foot of such a rubberized shoe forepart, one may easily surmise.

My herein disclosed method greatly helps towards eliminating the above noted defective condition at the pulling over machine operation by stretching lengthwise toeward of the last the lower marginal portion of the shoe upper at the assembling operation so that far less strain then is required at the toe-end pulling over machine movement which causes the upper to lift and bind over the forepart of the last, as hereinbefore explained, and my method also helps in this direction by holding the back of toe portion of the upper in fastened curved condition preparatory to the performance of the pulling over machine operation. Moreover, my method also helps to a still greater extent in this direction by the application of fastenings at the ball line of the last to hold the upper in lengthwise stretched condition and in last shaped condition on the forepart of the last at the assembling operation preparatory to the pulling over machine operation.

A further defective condition, and which is a costly one to the shoe manufacturer, exists at the pulling over machine operation, in that under the eifect of the strain incident to the toe-end pulling over movement upon the upper, the backseam oftentimes .is moved out of alignment relatively to the heel-end of the last so that a costly hand performed operation then is in order in the straightening out of the back-seam after the performance of the pulling over machine operation by means of the hand hammer and the hot iron and then the straightening out of the backseam is only temporary as it again will assume its original crooked condition after a short time of wear. The causeof this defective condition resides in the binding of the lower marginal portion of the upper lengthwise of the last under the effect of the toe-end pulling over movement of the pulling over machine whereby the backseam is disturbed 0n the heel-end of the last H whenever theoperator may not have engaged the end of the last or whenever one side of the upper is of a more stretchy nature than its opposite side.

The pro-stretched lower marginal portion of the shoe upper in accordance with the practice of my method eliminates the above noted defective'conditions at the pulling over machine operation.

My method is beneficial also at the side. lasting machine operation, which is the third step in thelasting of the shoe, and notably so when the step of stretching the upper heightwise of the last and of fastening to the last the heightwise stretched upper at the ball line of the last until the: time of the performance of a pulling over machine operation at or approximately at the ballline of the last, as hereinafter further explained, is availed of in the practice of the method. It is to benoted that this step of stretching the upper heightwise of the last and of fastening the same in. stretched condition at the ball line of the'last, in conjunction with the prior performed step of stretching its lower marginal portion lengthwise of the last, corresponds with the usual mode of stretching the upper diagonally in a direction toward the toe of the last and simultaneously heightwise of the lastat the ball line of; the last by the operator of the side lasting machine with hand lasting pincers (whenever the upper has not been pulled-over, as usually the case, at the ball line of the last) preparatory to presenting the shoe to the side lasting machine.

It is to be further noted that m method eliminates also certain defective conditions at the heel-seat lasting machine operation, which is the fourth step in the lasting of the shoe, by stretch,- ing the lower marginal portion of the upper and of its lining lengthwise toeward of the last whereby the lining is smoothed out from under the counter andthe upper is firmly stretched against the counter towards the bottom edge of the heel. of the last at the assembling operation which then includes the fastening of the stretched upper topthe last, such as at the ball line of the last, whereby it is held in stretched condition and deadened on the heel of the last within the period of time extending from the performance of the assembling operation to the performance of the heel- -seat lasting machine operation and whereby wrinkling of the upper and/or of the lining is eliminated at the heel-seat lasting machine op. eration. Furthermore, the pressing and flattening, of the upstanding counter-flange at the cor.-

hers of the heel of the last (commonly termed dog. ears) is contemplated in the practice of my method. The term corners of the heel of the last is designated as being located at those pointsbetween the rounded end of the heel of the last and the start of the sides of the heel of the last. The upstanding counter-flange at the corners of the heel cause serious disturbance of the counter as a whole on the last under the undue grip and draw of the wipers of the heel-seat lasting machine at those particular-points and my method contemplates, as hereinafter further explained, the elimination of such a defective condition at the heel-seat lasting machine operation;

As shown in the accompanying drawings: Figure 1 shows a side elevation of my shoe up.- per stretching machine which is adapted to the practice of the herein disclosed method; Figure 2 shows a front elevation of the said ma chine;

Figure 3,.shows a plan view of the shoe after the performance of the lengthwise stretching operation upon the lower marginal portion of the shoe upper andithe subsequent assembling opereration upon the heel-end and the sides of the shoe upper bystretching the shoe upper heightwise of the last and then by driving tacks to hold the shoe upper in assembled condition on the last;

Figure 4 shows a view similar to that of Fig. 3, but then the shoe is shown after having been removed from the machine Figure 5 shows the tip of the upper clamping means, taken on line 5-5 Fig. 1;

Figure, 6 shows a plan view of the oscillating member adapted to oscillate the shoe upper and its lining at the heel-end of the last; and

Figure 7 shows the locking means for holding the shoe upper stretching means from oscillating movement.

As further shown in the drawings:

I have provided the machine-base I, which rotatably supports the machine-head 2, which has two upstanding arms 3, which support at their upper ends the cross-bar 4, which carries the pivot pin 5, supporting the slide-holding frame 6. The said frame has the forwardly extended arms 1, to which the upper end of a strong spring 8, is connectedthe lower end thereof being con nected by a pin 9, located on the machine-head 2. The said strong spring urges the said frame 6, upwardly, for purposes to be hereinafter 8X plained, and the said frame has the dovetail track II which is adapted to receive the spindleblock l l, which carries the last supporting spindle l2, and the hold-down member Ila, which serves in limiting the upward movement of the last upon the shoe upper stretching means l6, under the influence of the actuating spring 30, moving rearwardly the spindle-block H, and the last when the treadle 25 is released in the performance of the lengthwise stretching operation upon the lowermarginal portion of the shoe upper; and which also serves in pressing and flatteniIlg the upstanding flange of the counter, lo-

cated at the corners of the heel of the last, under the influence of the aforesaid upward movement of the last forcing the heel-seat of the shoe against the said hold-down member Ila, except on lasts of small sizes, as such lasts are not appreciably raised from the last supporting spindle l2, under the effect of the lengthwise stretching operation upon the lower marginal portion of the shoe upper and heel-seats of shoes made on such lasts cannot be, under any circumstances, pressed and flattened against the hold-down member Ha.

In this connection it should be explained that whenever a machinesuch as herein shown, is not provided with a hold-down, such as herein shown, the last then, when of a large size or of the high cone type, is moved upwardly and entirely off the last supporting spindle l2, under the influence of the rearward movement of the last upon the shoe upper stretching means l6, by the actuating spring 30, in the stretching of the lower marginal portion of the shoe upper lengthwise of the last. Thus, the upstanding counterflange. located at the corners of the heel of the last, then may be pressed and flattened against the hold-down member Ha, under the influence of the upward movement of the last from the last supporting spindle l2. The hold-down member Ha, is very important for the practice of the method upon shoes made on large size lasts and upon shoes made on lasts of the high cone type and notably in limiting the upward movement of such lasts on the last supporting spindle l2, and from entire separation thereof. Of course, a hold-down, such as herein shown, is old in the art and no claim is herein made therefor and, furthermore, it goes without saying, that pressing and flattening of the upstanding counterflange at the corners of th heel is only incidental to the practice of the method and is not necessary to its practice.

The arms 3, of the machine-head 2, support the bracket I3, which is adjustably mounted for vertical adjustment relativelyto the last supporting spindle I2, to accommodate lasts of various styles and the slots [4, and the bolts I5, serve for this purpose. The upper end of the said bracket l3, has a bearing 11, for supporting the shoe upper stretching means [6, and carries a downwardly extended stud l8, which is mounted in the said bearing H, for oscillation of the heel-end of the shoe upper on the heelend of the last in smoothing out the lining whenever it is wrinkled on the heel of the shoe. The upper end of the shoe upper stretching means It, is provided with a hard rubber portion 2|, which is adapted to directly engage the top of the upper 22, on the last 23, back of the tipseam 24, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2 and the sharp front top edge thereof is adapted to hold the curved down forepart portion of the upper from slipping thereon. In this connection it is to be noted, that under the best form of the practice of the method, both sides of the lower marginal portion of the shoe upper, back of its tip-seam, are set into engagement with the members 2la, in advance of the start of the lengthwise stretching operation upon the shoe upper, so that the lower marginal portion of the shoe upper at both its sides may be thereby stretched lengthwise of the last to a predetermined extent (in accordance with the projecting extent of the said members 2la, which may be of any suitable projecting extent depending upon the type or kind of shoe upper to be stretched) in excess of the extent of the stretch upon the top portion of the shoe upper, which takes place towards the end of the stretching operation upon the lower marginal portion of the shoe upper when the slack in the intermediate top portions of the shoe upper has been taken up when both the lower marginal portion of the shoe upper and the intermediate top portions of the shoe upper are respectively stretched lengthwise of the last by the members 2la and by the top front edge of the shoe upper stretching means It. In this connection it is to be noted that in the stretching lengthwise of the lower marginal portion of the shoe upper, the top portion should then be strained forcibly enough to at least firmly set the upper and the counter against the heel end of the last.

The treadle 25, which carries the connecting rod 26, is pivotally connected to the forward end of the bell-crank lever 21, and the upper end of the bell-crank lever is connected to the link 28, to the sliding-block II, which carries the downwardly extended hook 29, which holds the forward end of the actuating spring 30- the rear end thereof being secured to the springtension adjusting screw 3|, which is carried by the downward projection 32, of the track l0.

Locking means are providedforholding the shoe upperv stretching means It, from oscillation and in fixed normal position prior to and during the'time of its operation in the stretching of the lower marginal portion of the shoe upper and to this end the lever 39, is pivotally held at 40, to one of the hand levers l9 and it has an extended locking portion which is adapted to disengage from the recess 42, of the hub I1, whenever the operator depresses the lever 39, to then permit of free oscillation of the shoe upper stretching means l6, as shown in dotted position in Fig.5. I have further provided the equalizing springs 43, for urgingthe shoe upper stretching means 16, into straight normal position whereby the locking portion of the lever 39, may automatically engage into the recess 42, of the hub l1 and hold the shoe upper stretching means from oscillation. In this connection it is to be noted that the oscillating movement of the shoe upper stretching means I3, is of very little importance in the practice of the method and is far from being absolutely necessary as there is seldom need for the smoothing out of the lining once. the lower marginal portion of the shoe upper and'of its lining have been stretched lengthwise from the heel-end'to the to of the last as herein proposed.

I now will explain the practice of the method by the operation of the herein shown machine:

The operator first depresses the treadle 25, whereby the spindle-block II, is moved forwardly on the track It) and against the tension of the actuating spring 30 and, while holding the treadle down, he holds the shoe crosswise of-the machine and he places the last 23, having an 'insole 23a assembled thereon and a shoe upper mounted thereon, upon the last supporting spindle l2 and he then places the heel-end of'the shoe under the hold-down member Ila, by rotat ing the shoe on the said spindle until the forepart of the shoe reaches the shoe upper stretching means it, when he then depresses the forearm engaging member 33, whereby the frame 6, is rocked on the pivot pin 5, against the tension of the strong spring 3 and thus the last sup porting spindle I2, is moved, with the shoe there on, downward to permit of free setting of the forepart of the shoe upon the shoe upper stretching means It and then he sets the tip-seam 24, of the upper 22, ahead of the projections 2|a, forming part of the shoe upper stretching means It, and which are adapted to directly engage and hold the lower marginal portion of the shoe upper from slipping rearwardly on the last and he then operates the clamping member 34 (which is herein shown in the form of a rubber roll movable towards and, from the top front face of the shoe upper stretching means 16, as shown in its dotted position to its r1111 clamping position in Fig. 1) to thereby hold the tip of the shoe upper against the front face of the shoe upper stretching means l6, Then he releases the treadle 25 and under the action of the actuating spring 30, the spindle supporting block II, is moved rearwardly and the shoe upper is thereby stretched lengthwise of the last from its heel-end to its toe ortion, as hereinbefore explained, and while the shoe upper is being held in stretched condition on the last, he engages and stretches heightwise of the last with hand lasting pincers'the upper and its lining at the heel-end of the last and over the insole on the last and he then drives the tack a, through the upper, its lining, the counter-flange and the insole and the tack is clenched against the heel-plate of the last. At this point it is to be noted that the above explained assembling operation at the heelend of the last may well be performed prior to the passing of the shoe to the machine herein shown although this assembling operation is better performed, as herein proposed, after the shoe upper has been stretched lengthwise against the heel-end of the last. Then he engages and stretches the upper and its lining (if present) heightwise of the last at or in closeproximity to the ball line of the last, first at one side of the last and he then drives tacks b, to hold the stretched upper in lengthwise and heightwise stretched and assembled condition on the last at that side of the last and he next proceeds to likewise perform the stretching and assembling operation upon the upper at the opposite side of the last. The tacks b, are eventually removed (preferably immediately preceding the performance of the pulling over machine operation upon the upper) to permit of engagement and stretching of the upper and of its lining (if present) at the ball line of the last heightwise of the last by the grippers of the pulling over machine which are adapted to simultaneously engage and stretch the upper at both sides of the last at the ball line of the last. Then he engages and stretches the upper and its lining, and, preferably the counter-flange also, heightwise of the last and diagonally toe-ward of the last and over the insole on the last and he completes the assembling operation in accordance with the best known form of the practice of my method by driving the tacks c, to hold the said shoe parts in assembled condition on the ,last.

It is to be noted that the assembling operation at the ball line of the last, as herein shown, is not absolutely necessary to my invention, as when the shoe upper is of a very stretchy nature this assembling operation may be dispensed with as the reaction upon the shoe upper then is not appreciablydisadvantageous and thesame is true as to the assembling operation at th sides of the heel of the last whenever the counter exactly or nearly exactly fits the last as then this assembling operation well may be part of the side lasting machine operation. I

I have herein shown a shoe of the well known Goodyear welt type for convenience only, it being understood, of course, that the-method may be advantageously practiced 'upon anyother type of boots and shoes adapted to be pulled over and/or side lasted by machine. v

Each claim is to be interpreted as specifically stated and is to be limited by the requirements of the prior art only.

Having thus explained the nature of my method and shown a machine adapted to the best form of its practice now to be known, what I claim as new and desire to secure byLetters Patent of the United States is:

' 1. That method of stretching and assembling uppers on lasts which comprises the provision of an upper mounted on a last having an insole as sembled thereon and the engaging and stretching of the top portion of the upper lengthwise of the last and the engaging and stretching of its lower marginal portion lengthwise of the last to a predetermined extent in excess of the extent of the lengthwise stretch upon its top portion, preparatory to the performance of the pulling over ma- I chine operation upon the upper.

2. That method of stretching and assembling uppers on lasts which comprises the provision of an upper mounted on a last having an insole as- '5 sembled thereon and the engaging and stretching of the top portionof theupper lengthwise of the last; the engaging and stretching of its lower marginal portion to a predetermined-extent lengthwise of the last in excess-of the extent of the lengthwise stretch upon its top portion and the fastening of the stretched upper to the insole on the lastto hold the stretched upper under lengthwise stretch and in assembled condition on the last, preparatory to the performance of the pulling over machine operation upon the upper. 3. That method of stretching and assembling uppers on lasts which comprises the provision of an upper mounted on a--last having an insole assembled thereon and the engaging and stretching of the top portion of the upper lengthwise of the last; the engaging and stretching of its lower marginal portion to a predetermined extent lengthwise of the last-in excess of the extent of the lengthwise stretch upon its top portion and the fastening of the stretched upper to the insole on the last at the sides of the heel of the last and at or approximately at-the ball line of the last to hold the stretched upper under lengthwise stretch'and in assembled condition on the last,

' preparatory to the performance of the pulling over machine operation upon the upper.

4. That method of stretching and assembling uppers on lasts which comprises the provision of an upper mounted on a lasthaving an' insole assembled thereon and the engaging and stretching of the top portion of the upper lengthwise of the last; the engaging and stretching of its lower marginal portion to a predetermined extent lengthwise of the last in excess of the extent of the lengthwise stretch upon its top portionand the fastening of-the stretched'up per to the insole on'th'e last at or approximately at the ball line of the last to hold the stretched upper under lengthwise stretch and in assembled condition on the last, preparatory to the performance of the pulling overmachine operation upon the upper.

5. That method of stretching and assembling uppers on lasts which comprises the provision of an upper mounted on a last having an insole assen bled thereon and the engaging and stretching of the top portion of the upper lengthwise of the last; the engaging and stretching of its lower marginal portion to a predetermined extent lengthwise of the last in excess of the extent of theflengthwise stretch upon its top portion and the fastening of the stretched upper to the insole on the last at the sides of the heel of the last .to hold the stretched upper under lengthwise stretch and in assembled condition on the last, preparatory to the performance of the pulling over machine operation upon the upper.

6. Thatgnethod of stretchingand assembling .uppers on lasts which comprises the provision of an upper mounted on a last having an insole as- 'sembled thereon and the engaging and stretching of the top portion of the upper lengthwise of the last; the, engaging and stretching of its lower marginalportion lengthwise of the last to some extent i-nexcess of theextent of the lengthwise stretchuponits top, portion and the fastening of the stretched upper to the'insole on the last at or approximately at the ball lineof the last to hold the stretched upper under lengthwise stretch and in assembled condition on the last, preparatory to the performance of the pulling over machine operation upon the upper.

7. That method of stretching and assembling uppers on lasts which comprises the provision of an upper mounted on a last having an insole assembled thereon and the engaging and stretching of the top portion of the upper lengthwise of the last; the engaging and stretching of its lower marginal portion lengthwise of the last to some extent in excess of the extent of the lengthwise stretch upon its top portion and the fastening of the stretched upper to the insole on the last to hold the stretched upper under lengthwise stretch and in assembled condition on the last, preparatory to the performance of the pulling over machine operation upon the upper.

8. That method of stretching and assembling uppers on lasts which comprises the provision of an upper having -a heel portion and mounted on a last having a heel portion and an insole assembled thereon and the engaging and stretching of the top portion of the upper lengthwise of the last from the heel-end thereof and the engaging and stretching of its lower marginal portion simultaneously at both its sides lengthwise of the last from the heel-end thereof to some extent in excess of. the extent of the stretch upon its top portion and with or substantially with the same extent of thereby avoid undue sidewise displacement of its heel portion relatively to the heel-end portion of the last under the effect of the simultaneous lengthwise stretch taking place upon its lower marginal portion at both its sides, preparatory to the performance of the pulling over machine operation upon the-upper.

9. That method of stretching and assembling uppers on lasts which comprises the provision of an upper having a heel portion and mounted on a-last having a heel portion and an insole assembled thereon and the engaging of the back of toe top portion of the upper and the stretching of the top of the upper including its engaged back of toe top portion lengthwise of the last from the heel-end thereof and the stretching of its lower marginal portion simultaneously at both its sides lengthwise of the last from the heel-end thereof tosome extent in excess of the extent of the stretch upon its top portion and with or substantially with the same extent of lengthwise stretch at both its sides to thereby .avoid undue sidewise displacement of its heel portion relatively to the heel-end portion of the lastu'nder the effect of the simultaneous lengthwise stretch taking place upon its lower marginal portion at both its sides, preparatory to the performance of thepulling over machine operation upon the upper.

10. That method of stretching and assembling uppers on lasts which comprises the provision of an upper having a heel portion and mounted on a last having a heel portion and'an insole assembled thereon and the engaging of the back of tee top portion of the upper and the stretching of the top of the upper including its engaged back of toe portion lengthwise of the last from the heel-end thereof; the stretching of its lower marginal portion simultaneously at both its sides lengthwise of the last from the heel-end thereof to some extent in excess of the extent of the stretch upon its top portion and the fastening of the upper in stretched condition on the last atthe sides of the heel and at or approximately lengthwise stretch at both its sides to at the ball line of the last, preparatory to the performance of the pulling over machine operation upon the upper.

11. That method of stretching and assembling uppers on lasts which'comprises the provision of an upper having a heel portion and mounted on a last having a heel portion and an insole assembledthereon andthe engaging of the back of toe top portion of the upper and the stretching of the top of the upper including its engaged back of toe portion lengthwise of the last from the heel-end thereof; the stretching of its lower marginal portion simultaneously at both its sides lengthwise of the last from the heel-end thereof to some extent in excess of the extent of the stretch upon its top portion and the fastening of the upper in stretched condition on the last at or approximately at the ball line of the last, preparatory to the performance of the pulling over machine operation upon the upper.

12. That method of stretching and assembling uppers on lasts which comprises the provision of an upper having a heel portion and mounted on a last having a heel portion and an insole assembled thereon and the engaging of the back of toe top portion of the upper and the stretching of the top of the upper including its engaged back of toe portion lengthwise of the last from the heel-end thereof; the stretching of its lower marginal portion simultaneously at both its sides lengthwise of the last from the heel-end thereof to some extent in excess of the extent of the stretch upon is top portion and the fastening of the upper in stretched condition on the last at the sides of the heel of the last, preparatory to the performance of the pulling over machine operation upon the upper.

13. That method of stretching and assembling uppers on lasts which comprises the provision of an upper mounted on a last having an insole assembled thereon and the engaging and stretching of the top portion of the upper lengthwise of the last; the engaging and stretching of its lower marginal portion lengthwise of the last to some extent in excess of the extent of the lengthwise stretch upon its top portion and the fastening of the stretched upper to the insole on the last at the sides of the heel of the last and at or-approximately at the ball line of the last to to hold the stretched upper under lengthwise stretch and in assembled condition on that last, preparatory to the performance of the pulling over machine operation upon the upper.

14. That method of stretching and assembling uppers on lasts which comprises the provision of an upper mounted on a last having an insole assembled thereon and the engaging and stretching of the top portion of the upper lengthwise of the last; the engaging and stretching of its lower marginal portion to some extent lengthwise of the last in excess of the extent of the lengthwise stretch upon its top portion and the fastening of the stretched upper to the insole on the last at the sides of the heel of the last to hold the stretched upper under lengthwise stretch and in assembled condition on the last, preparatory to the performance of the pulling over machine operation upon the upper.

EUCLID I. LA CHAPELLE. 

